Here in the Pacific Northwest, smoked salmon is a regional delicacy. Cold smoked and served over bagels, bread or crackers with cream cheese is pretty common but I like the hot (temperature, not spiciness) smoked versions the best. The end product is denser and flakier, just like baked salmon but with a slight smokiness and firm crust around the top from the pre-smoking curing. All smoked fish and meats tend to have more added sodium than their fresh versions and the use of smoke makes them potentially carcinogenic in large quantities, so they are best saved for occasional indulgences. When I have no inspiration to cook, I like to find an ingredient that I don’t normally use or that I think is really special, like smoked salmon, and build something around that. If it doesn’t work out that great then at least the process is fun.
This is a rustic and simple dish so the measurements do not have to be exact. The sauce is just browned butter, (aka buerre noisette or hazelnut butter) which has an almost nutty flavor, and a bit of lemon juice so that the salmon gets to take center stage. The salmon itself will already have lots of salt from the curing and if using salted butter than that will probably provide enough, but some freshly ground black pepper can be nice. The kale adds lots of nutrients and texture and the noodles bring it all together. I used kamut udon noodles because they are very light and have a sweet and mild buttery, nutty flavor that goes well with the other ingredients; they can be found at most health food stores or substituted for any other long noodles. Kamut is simply “wheat” in ancient Egyptian but it is higher in protein and several minerals and vitamins than the regular refined wheat we consume. It qualified as an ancient grain, meaning it has not been modified at all in recent history (like our most popular strains of wheat), and consequently many people who are sensitive to modern strains may find it much easier to digest.
- 1 8 oz package of udon noodles (I used the Eden brand Kamut udon)
- 3 large leaves of kale, de-stemmed and sliced thinly
- 1 lb hot smoked salmon, cut into small pieces (I used wild sockeye)
- ¼ cup butter, cut into small chunks for even melting time
- 1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges
- Optional: Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
- Fill a large pot with water and place over high heat on the stove. Once the water is boiling, cook the noodles according to package directions. Place the kale and salmon in a large bowl off to the side. Once the pasta is done, strain it and add to the bowl with the kale and salmon, stir to combine and cover to keep the heat in. The warmth from the pasta will soften the kale and warm up the salmon. Rinse the pot and place back on the hot element on the stove. Add in the butter, turn the heat down to medium and cook for 4-5 minutes until the color darkens, whisking continuously. It should melt quickly and start foaming a bit. Remove it immediately once the color becomes light brown and it starts to smell nutty because it can go from perfect to burnt very quickly. Add the butter to the other ingredients, top with a dash of salt and pepper and toss it altogether. Plate with the lemon wedges and squirt the juice over top before eating.
